Bike Assembly Guide

Your new bike has arrived – brilliant! Before you head out, take half an hour to set it up properly. A bike that fits you and has been checked over is safer, more comfortable and will look after you for longer. This guide walks you through everything, from opening the box to your first service.

Every bike we send out is built and checked by our workshop, but you'll still need to straighten and tighten the handlebars, fit the pedals and set the saddle to your height. Anything you're unsure of, just get in touch – we're always happy to help.

1. Unboxing & delivery checks

Before you open anything, photograph the outside of the box while it's still sealed, especially any dents, tears or crushed corners. Then follow this checklist:

• ☐ Open the box carefully – never use a knife, scissors or anything sharp that could go through the packaging and scratch the frame.
• ☐ Lift the bike out and remove the protective wrapping, cable ties and foam slowly, especially around the wheels, bars and derailleur.
• ☐ Check the frame, fork and paintwork all over in good light.
• ☐ Look at the rear derailleur (the gear mechanism by the back wheel) from behind – it should hang straight down, not bent in towards the spokes.
• ☐ Check the small parts box: pedals, reflectors, manuals, keys and (for e-bikes) the charger.
• ☐ Keep all the packaging for as long as you might need to return the bike.

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2. Setting up your bike

You'll need a set of Allen (hex) keys and a pedal spanner or the right size Allen key for your pedals. A torque wrench is ideal – the correct settings are usually printed next to the bolts or in your bike's manual.

If you're not confident doing any of this yourself, please have it done by a professional. Problems caused by incorrect assembly aren't covered under warranty.

Handlebars & stem

• Make sure the bars are the right way up, with the brake and gear levers underneath.
• Line up the centre markings on the bars with the stem faceplate, then tighten the faceplate bolts evenly, a little at a time, in a criss-cross pattern.
• Stand over the front wheel and line the stem up exactly with the tyre, then tighten the stem's side bolts evenly.
• Check it's secure: hold the front wheel between your knees and try to twist the bars. Nothing should move.
• Angle the levers so your wrists are straight when you're sat on the bike.

Fitting the front wheel

If your front wheel came out of the box separately, check which axle type your bike uses:

• Bolt-on: tighten the nuts on each side evenly, a little at a time.
• Quick release: close the lever firmly. It should take enough force to leave a slight mark on your palm, and finish pointing up along the fork.
• Thru axle: screw the axle in fully, then close the lever (if it has one) so it sits upwards, parallel with the fork leg.

Spin the wheel to check it runs straight and doesn't rub the brakes before you ride.

Saddle height & position

• Sit on the bike (lean against a wall) with your heel on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke – your leg should be almost straight. When you pedal normally with the ball of your foot, you'll have a slight bend at the knee.
• Too low and your knees will ache; too high and your hips will rock from side to side.
• Start with the saddle level and in the middle of its rails, then fine-tune once you've done a few rides.
• Never raise the seatpost above its minimum insertion line.

Fitting pedals (the left one is reverse-threaded!)

This is the step that catches most people out. Pedals are marked L and R on the axle or the end of the thread.

• Right pedal (chain side): normal thread – turn clockwise to tighten.
• Left pedal: left-hand (reverse) thread – turn anti-clockwise to tighten.
• Easy way to remember: both pedals tighten towards the front of the bike.
• Put a little grease on the threads and start each pedal by hand for the first few turns. If it feels stiff, stop, back it out and start again – forcing it will strip the crank thread.
• Finish by tightening firmly with the pedal spanner or Allen key.

The video below covers fitting both flat and clip-in pedals. For flat pedals the first part is all you need; carry on watching if you're fitting clipless pedals and cleats.

Tyre pressures

• Bikes can lose pressure in transit, so pump the tyres up before your first ride.
• The recommended pressure range is printed on the side of each tyre (in PSI and/or bar). Stay within that range and never go above the maximum.
• Lighter riders and off-road riding: towards the lower end. Heavier riders, e-bikes and road riding: towards the upper end.
• Use a track pump with a gauge, and check pressures every week or so – all tyres lose air slowly over time.

Brakes & bedding them in

• Squeeze each brake lever firmly: it should feel solid and stop before it touches the handlebar.
• Check which lever works which brake. In the UK the right lever is usually the front brake.
• New disc brakes need bedding in before they reach full power. Find a quiet, safe flat area and do around 10–20 controlled stops from a steady speed, braking firmly but without locking the wheel.
• Keep oil, lube and cleaning sprays well away from the discs and pads. Contaminated pads lose a lot of stopping power.
• A little noise or rubbing at first is normal while the pads settle. If it carries on or the brake feels spongy, get in touch.

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3. Suspension setup (mountain bikes)

If your bike has an air-sprung fork or rear shock, setting the sag (how much the suspension compresses under your weight) makes a huge difference to how it rides. You'll need a shock pump – a normal tyre pump won't work.

• Hardtails: just set up the fork.
• Full suspension: set up both the fork and the rear shock.
• Kit up as you'd ride (helmet, bag, water) and use the guide pressures printed on the fork leg or shock, or in the manufacturer's app or manual, as a starting point.
• Most forks only have an air valve on one leg (usually the left). Add air to firm it up and let some out to soften it.
• Take the shock pump on your first few rides so you can fine-tune it.

Front fork

Rear shock

Suspension needs regular servicing too. See our suspension servicing page.

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4. E-bikes: battery, display & motor

Battery: first charge

• Fully charge the battery before your first ride. It may have been stored part-charged.
• Only use the charger supplied with your bike, or an approved replacement from the same manufacturer.
• Charge indoors at room temperature, on a hard, dry surface, away from anything flammable, and not in direct sunlight.
• If the battery has been out in the cold, let it warm up to room temperature before charging.
• Check the battery is clicked fully into place and locked before you ride. Keep the key somewhere safe and note the key number.

Battery care

• Try not to run the battery completely flat or leave it empty for long periods.
• For storage longer than a few weeks (over winter, for example), most manufacturers recommend leaving it partly charged (around 30–60%) and keeping it somewhere cool, dry and frost-free. Top it up every couple of months.
• Avoid extreme heat and cold. Don't leave the battery in a hot car or in direct sun.
• Don't use a pressure washer on the bike. Clean with a damp cloth or a gentle hose, and take the battery out first if your bike allows it.
• Never use a battery that's been dropped, cracked, swollen or has got very hot. Stop using it and contact us.
• Always follow the battery advice in your manufacturer's manual. It takes priority over general tips.

Display basics

• Turning on: usually a power button on the display, remote or top tube. Some systems also wake up when you start pedalling.
• Assist modes: use the +/– or up/down buttons to change the level of help. Start in a low mode while you get used to the power, and use higher modes for hills and headwinds.
• Range: the remaining range shown is an estimate that changes with the mode, terrain, rider weight, tyre pressure and temperature.
• Walk assist: many systems have a walk mode to help you push the bike up ramps.
• Apps: most systems connect to a smartphone app for ride data, settings and software updates.
• Remember, UK e-bikes (EAPCs) only assist while you pedal and stop assisting at 15.5 mph (25 km/h).

Motor systems

Your bike's spec sheet or manual will tell you which motor system it has. Here are the main ones you'll find on the e-bikes we sell:

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5. Your first ride checklist

• ☐ Handlebars straight and tight, and the stem lined up with the front wheel
• ☐ Pedals fitted on the correct sides and fully tightened
• ☐ Saddle at the right height, below the minimum insertion mark, and clamp tight
• ☐ Wheels secure (quick-release levers closed firmly, thru-axles tightened, nuts done up)
• ☐ Tyres pumped up to within the range on the sidewall
• ☐ Both brakes working and bedded in (discs)
• ☐ Gears change smoothly through the range (try them on a stand or while riding slowly)
• ☐ Lights and reflectors fitted, plus a helmet that fits
• ☐ E-bikes: battery fully charged, locked in and display working
• ☐ Take a few Allen keys, a pump and a phone on the first ride, as small adjustments are normal

Start somewhere quiet and familiar, especially on an e-bike, so you can get used to the brakes, gears and power before heading into traffic or onto the trails.

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6. The ABC safety check

It only takes a minute, so do it before every ride:

Then: check the quick releases and thru-axles are closed, nothing is loose (bounce the bike gently and listen for rattles), and, on an e-bike, that the battery is locked in and charged.

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7. Your first service

New bikes need a short bedding-in period. Gear and brake cables stretch slightly, spokes settle and bolts can work loose, so after your first few rides you may notice the gears aren't quite as crisp. That's normal and easy to fix.

• Book in for a check once the bike has settled in. Bikes bought from our store come with a one-time free service at around 3 months, so ask us for details.
• After that, regular servicing keeps your bike safe, running well and eligible for warranty. We recommend at least once every six months, and more often if you ride all year round. Always follow any service schedule set by your bike or motor manufacturer.
• Keep receipts or records of your services, because manufacturers may ask for them if you ever need to make a warranty claim.

See our Bike & E-Bike Servicing page for service options, or visit our repairs page.

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8. Something arrived damaged?

We're sorry if anything's not right. Here's what to do:

1. Don't ride the bike.
2. Take clear photos: the box (ideally before opening), two photos of the whole bike, one from each side, and close-ups of the problem.
3. Find your frame or serial number (usually under the bottom bracket, where the cranks meet the frame).
4. Report it within 24 hours of delivery by opening a support ticket from your order status page (there's a link in your order confirmation email) or from your customer account.
5. Keep all the original packaging.

Full details, including how to open a support ticket, are on our Warranty Procedures & Delivery Problems page. Most bikes are covered by the manufacturer's warranty, and the length and cover vary by brand, so check with the manufacturer for the details for your bike.

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9. FAQs

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10. Need a hand?